The language of bridalwear
The Ritih
Bridal Dictionary
From ghera and kali to zardozi and Banarasi — clear explanations of the words you may hear while choosing, designing or wearing Indian wedding clothes.
80 terms
Indian bridalwear has its own vocabulary, shaped by regional dress, textile traditions, hand embroidery and generations of tailoring. Some words are also used differently from one maker, boutique or family to another.
Use this as a practical reference. Where it matters, we also explain why a term can affect the look, weight, fit, movement or comfort of an outfit.
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A
Parts & Construction
A-Line Lehenga
Also: A line lehenga
An A-line lehenga sits relatively close around the waist and upper hip before gradually widening towards the hem.
Useful to know
It creates flare without the extreme volume of a very full circular skirt.
Embroidery & Handwork
Aari or Ari Work
Also: Aari work · Ari work
Aari work is a form of chain-stitch embroidery produced using a fine hooked needle.
Useful to know
It can create flowing outlines and detailed surfaces using thread alone or in combination with beads, sequins and other embellishments.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Achkan
An achkan is a long fitted coat-like garment traditionally worn by men.
Useful to know
It shares similarities with the sherwani, though historical, regional and construction distinctions are more nuanced than a single visual rule.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Anarkali
Also: Anarkali suit
An Anarkali is a long garment that is relatively fitted through the upper body before opening into substantial flare.
Useful to know
Modern Anarkalis range from simple flowing suits to heavily embroidered floor-length wedding outfits.
Embroidery & Handwork
Appliqué
Also: Applique
Appliqué involves attaching pieces of fabric or decorative material onto a larger base textile to create a design.
Useful to know
Bridalwear may use embroidered motifs, lace, cut flowers or three-dimensional fabric petals in this way.
B
Fabrics & Textiles
Banarasi
Banarasi refers to renowned textile and weaving traditions associated with Varanasi, also known as Banaras.
Useful to know
The term does not describe one generic silk. Banarasi textiles include several constructions and are especially known for rich brocades and zari weaving.
Fabrics & Textiles
Bandhani
Also: Bandhej
Bandhani, also called bandhej, is a traditional resist tie-dye technique created by tying small areas of fabric before dyeing.
Useful to know
The technique has strong associations with Gujarat and Rajasthan and appears in sarees, dupattas, lehengas and other clothing.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Bandhgala or Jodhpuri Suit
Also: Bandhgala · Jodhpuri suit
A bandhgala is a structured jacket with a closed standing collar and is often called a Jodhpuri suit when styled with formal trousers.
Useful to know
For grooms it can offer a shorter, tailored alternative to a full-length sherwani.
Bespoke & Fitting
Bespoke
Bespoke generally means an outfit is created specifically around an individual client’s requirements rather than simply selected from a fixed ready-made design.
Useful to know
Different businesses use the word differently, so the actual process matters more than the label.
Parts & Construction
Blouse
In Indian fashion, a blouse usually means the fitted upper garment worn with a saree or lehenga.
Useful to know
A bridal blouse can be modest, long, sleeved, high-necked, corset-inspired or designed to almost any preferred level of coverage.
Parts & Construction
Border
A border is a decorative strip running along the edge of a garment, such as a lehenga hem, blouse neckline, sleeve or dupatta edge.
Useful to know
A wide, densely decorated border can add significant visual weight and physical weight.
Fabrics & Textiles
Brocade
Brocade is a richly patterned woven textile in which decorative designs are created during weaving rather than printed onto the surface.
Useful to know
Metallic yarns are common but not essential. A brocade garment may already look highly detailed before embroidery is added.
C
Parts & Construction
Cancan
Also: Can-can
Cancan is stiff netting or a structured layer placed beneath a lehenga to give the skirt extra volume.
Useful to know
More is not automatically better: very heavy cancan can make sitting, travelling and dancing more difficult.
Fabrics & Textiles
Chanderi
Chanderi is a fine textile tradition associated with Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh.
Useful to know
Chanderi fabrics are often lightweight and slightly sheer and may combine cotton, silk and zari.
Fabrics & Textiles
Chiffon
Chiffon is a very light, sheer fabric known for fluid drape.
Useful to know
It is frequently chosen for dupattas, sarees and softer outfits and offers much less structure than raw silk, brocade or velvet.
Parts & Construction
Choli
A choli is the upper garment traditionally worn with a lehenga or saree. Bridal versions vary widely in length, sleeves, neckline and coverage.
Useful to know
Fit should be checked while raising the arms, sitting and moving, not only while standing still.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Churidar
A churidar is a close-fitting trouser cut with extra length so characteristic folds gather around the ankle.
Useful to know
Churidars are commonly worn with kurtas, Anarkalis, sherwanis and other traditional garments.
Parts & Construction
Circular or Full-Flare Lehenga
Also: Circular lehenga · Full-flare lehenga · Full flare lehenga
A circular or full-flare lehenga uses a large amount of fabric to create substantial sweep and movement.
Useful to know
The trade-off can be extra fabric, more embroidery and therefore greater weight and cost.
Fabrics & Textiles
Crepe
Crepe is a fabric characterised by a lightly textured or crinkled surface and often a fluid drape.
Useful to know
Depending on its weight and fibre, it may be used for sarees, blouses, dresses and lighter occasionwear.
Bespoke & Fitting
Custom-Made
Also: Custom made
Custom-made is a broad term for clothing produced specifically for a customer.
Useful to know
Depending on the business, it can mean an existing design made to measurements, a modified design or a completely new outfit.
Embroidery & Handwork
Cutdana
Also: Cut dana
Cutdana refers to small cut beads whose surfaces catch and reflect light.
Useful to know
It is commonly combined with pearls, thread embroidery and metallic work in Indian occasionwear.
D
Embroidery & Handwork
Dabka
Dabka is a coiled metallic embroidery material frequently used in traditional hand embroidery and zardozi-style work.
Useful to know
The coil is shaped and stitched onto the surface rather than being passed through the fabric like ordinary thread.
Parts & Construction
Dori
Also: Doris
A dori is a cord or tie used to fasten or adjust part of an outfit.
Useful to know
Doris are common at blouse backs and lehenga waistbands and may carry decorative hanging elements.
Parts & Construction
Dupatta
Also: Chunni
A dupatta is a long piece of fabric worn with lehengas, salwar kameez and many other South Asian outfits.
Useful to know
Bridal looks may use one or two dupattas. Fabric, embroidery and borders strongly affect weight and how the dupatta drapes.
Bespoke & Fitting
Dye Lot and Colour Matching
Also: Dye lot · Colour matching · Color matching
A dye lot is a batch of fabric, thread or another material coloured during the same dyeing process.
Useful to know
Separate batches can vary slightly even under the same colour name, and different materials reflect light differently even when their underlying shades are close.
E
Embroidery & Handwork
Embroidery Density
Embroidery density describes how heavily decorated an area of fabric is.
Useful to know
Two garments can use the same technique but differ dramatically in labour, weight and cost depending on how densely the surface is covered.
F
Bespoke & Fitting
Fabric Swatch or Sample
Also: Fabric swatch · Fabric sample · Swatch
A fabric swatch or sample is a small piece of the actual or proposed material used to judge colour, texture and finish.
Useful to know
For remote bridal work, physical samples can be much safer than approving colour entirely from a phone or computer screen.
Bespoke & Fitting
Fitting Outfit or Toile
Also: Fitting outfit · Toile
A toile is a test garment used to assess fit and shape before the final piece is completed.
Useful to know
A fitting garment can be especially useful when bride and maker are in different countries because it reveals proportion and movement that measurements alone may miss.
G
Fabrics & Textiles
Georgette
Georgette is a lightweight fabric with a soft drape and slightly textured surface.
Useful to know
It moves easily and is often used for sarees, lighter lehengas, Anarkalis and flowing dupattas.
Parts & Construction
Ghagra
Ghagra is another word for a long, flared Indian skirt and is closely related to what is now commonly called a lehenga.
Useful to know
Which word is used can depend on region, family background and the style being discussed.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Gharara
A gharara has a more fitted upper trouser section before a seam around the knee joins it to a dramatically flared lower portion.
Useful to know
That fitted-to-flared construction is the characteristic distinction from a sharara.
Parts & Construction
Ghera
Ghera refers to the overall fullness or circumference around the bottom of a lehenga.
Useful to know
More ghera can create sweeping movement, but can also mean more fabric, embroidery, weight and volume to manage.
Embroidery & Handwork
Gota
Gota is a metallic ribbon or decorative trim traditionally used on Indian clothing and textiles.
Useful to know
It can be sewn along borders or cut and folded into decorative shapes.
Embroidery & Handwork
Gota Patti
Gota patti is decorative work made by cutting, folding and applying pieces of gota ribbon to fabric.
Useful to know
It can create an ornate reflective surface without necessarily becoming as heavy as some dense metallic embroidery.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Gown
A gown generally describes a one-piece floor-length formal dress.
Useful to know
Indian bridal and reception gowns often combine Western-style construction with Indian embroidery, textiles or decorative techniques.
H
Embroidery & Handwork
Handwork
Handwork is a broad Indian fashion term for decoration applied or finished by hand.
Useful to know
The word alone does not tell you how much labour is involved or which materials are being used, so it is worth asking for specifics.
Parts & Construction
High-Waisted Lehenga
Also: High waisted lehenga
A high-waisted lehenga sits higher on the torso than a conventional skirt waistline.
Useful to know
Waist position changes the proportions of the outfit and needs to be planned together with blouse length.
I
Outfits & Silhouettes
Indian Garb
“Indian garb” is a broad English-language expression referring to clothing associated with India rather than one specific garment.
Useful to know
Specific names such as lehenga, saree, kurta or sherwani are usually more useful when discussing an outfit.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Indo-Western
Also: Indo Western
Indo-Western describes clothing that combines elements of Indian and Western fashion rather than one fixed outfit type.
Useful to know
Examples include corset-inspired lehenga blouses, draped gowns using Indian embroidery and contemporary sherwani cuts.
J
Fabrics & Textiles
Jacquard
Jacquard describes a weaving method that allows complex patterns to be formed directly within cloth.
Useful to know
It describes how the pattern is woven rather than one particular fibre, so jacquard textiles can be made from different materials.
K
Parts & Construction
Kali
A kali is one of the shaped fabric panels used to construct a flared garment.
Useful to know
Kalis can keep the waist comparatively neat while creating increasing fullness towards the hem.
Fabrics & Textiles
Kanjeevaram
Also: Kanjivaram
Kanjeevaram, also commonly written Kanjivaram, refers to the renowned silk weaving tradition associated with Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu.
Useful to know
It is particularly known for substantial silk sarees, contrasting borders and richly woven zari designs.
Embroidery & Handwork
Kundan
Kundan is primarily a traditional jewellery-setting technique in which stones are placed within a refined metal setting.
Useful to know
Clothing sellers sometimes use “kundan work” loosely for stone embellishment, but the term has much stronger roots in jewellery.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Kurta
A kurta is a tunic worn by men and women, with lengths and styles ranging from simple everyday clothing to elaborate wedding pieces.
Useful to know
It may be paired with pajama trousers, churidar, salwar, palazzo trousers or other bottoms.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Kurta Pajama
Also: Kurta pyjama
A kurta pajama combines a kurta with a pair of relatively simple trousers.
Useful to know
The outfit can range from understated everyday clothing to formal and heavily decorated wedding wear.
L
Parts & Construction
Latkan
Also: Latkans
Latkans are decorative hanging elements attached to blouse doris, lehenga waist ties and sometimes dupattas.
Useful to know
They can be made from beads, tassels, thread, pearls or embroidered shapes; very heavy latkans can pull on delicate ties.
Parts & Construction
Lehenga
Also: Lengha
A lehenga is a long Indian skirt, commonly worn with a blouse or choli and a dupatta. In everyday conversation, “lehenga” is also often used for the complete outfit.
Useful to know
Weight, waistband position, lining, flare and embroidery can change how a bridal lehenga feels after several hours of wear.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Lehenga Saree
A lehenga saree creates elements of a saree look while using a pre-constructed skirt or easier draping system.
Useful to know
It can reduce the amount of wrapping and pleating needed for a conventional saree drape.
Parts & Construction
Lining
Lining is the fabric layer placed inside a garment between the wearer and the outer material.
Useful to know
It can improve comfort, opacity and structure, and is especially useful beneath heavily embroidered surfaces.
M
Bespoke & Fitting
Made-to-Measure
Also: Made to measure
Made-to-measure generally means a garment is produced or adapted according to an individual’s measurements rather than supplied only in a standard size.
Useful to know
It can overlap with bespoke, but does not necessarily mean every design element is unique.
Parts & Construction
Mermaid or Fishtail Lehenga
Also: Mermaid lehenga · Fishtail lehenga
A mermaid or fishtail lehenga is fitted more closely around the waist and hips before flaring lower down the leg.
Useful to know
Because it sits closer to the body, walking, sitting and dancing should be tested carefully during fitting.
Embroidery & Handwork
Mirror Work or Shisha
Also: Mirror work · Shisha · Shisha work
Mirror work, also known as shisha work, uses small reflective mirror-like pieces secured to fabric with decorative stitching.
Useful to know
It is strongly associated with craft traditions including those of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
Embroidery & Handwork
Moti or Pearl Work
Also: Moti work · Pearl work
Moti means pearl, and moti work describes embroidery or decoration using pearl-like beads.
Useful to know
Pearl work can soften strongly metallic embroidery and may be used as tiny scattered details or prominent features.
Parts & Construction
Motif
A motif is an individual decorative design used within embroidery, weaving or print.
Useful to know
Flowers, paisleys, peacocks, leaves, vines and geometric forms can all be motifs. A reference image can be useful for communicating one motif without copying an entire outfit.
N
Embroidery & Handwork
Nakshi
Nakshi is a fine metallic coil used in decorative embroidery.
Useful to know
It can be curved around motifs and combined with dabka, beads, stones and coloured threads to create raised detail.
Fabrics & Textiles
Net
Net is an open-mesh fabric frequently used for bridal dupattas, sleeves, blouse panels and lehenga overlays.
Useful to know
Quality varies enormously: a fine soft bridal net can feel completely different from a coarse, stiff version.
O
Parts & Construction
Odhani or Odhni
Also: Odhani · Odhni
An odhani, also written odhni, is a traditional draped cloth closely related to the dupatta.
Useful to know
The term is particularly associated with parts of Rajasthan, Gujarat and northern India, though usage varies.
Fabrics & Textiles
Organza
Organza is a lightweight sheer fabric with a crisp structure.
Useful to know
Unlike chiffon, organza holds shape and can create sculpted dupattas, sleeves and layered skirts without the weight of dense embroidery.
P
Outfits & Silhouettes
Palazzo Suit
A palazzo suit combines very wide, straight or flowing trousers with an Indian-style kurta or tunic.
Useful to know
It usually has a more contemporary silhouette than a traditional salwar or gharara.
Parts & Construction
Panelled Lehenga
Also: Paneled lehenga
A panelled lehenga is constructed from several shaped sections sewn together.
Useful to know
Panels can help create considerable flare while keeping the waist comparatively controlled.
R
Fabrics & Textiles
Raw Silk
Raw silk is a broad fashion term commonly used for silk fabrics with a more textured, less glossy appearance than very smooth satin-like silk.
Useful to know
If fibre content matters, ask what the material is actually made from because retail fabric labels are not always technically precise.
Bespoke & Fitting
Reference Image
A reference image is a photograph used to communicate an idea about an outfit rather than necessarily a request to copy the whole design.
Useful to know
It is often more useful to explain the specific neckline, colour, motif, flare, sleeve or other detail you like in each image.
Embroidery & Handwork
Resham
Also: Resham work
Resham literally relates to silk, while “resham work” in modern fashion often refers to smooth coloured thread embroidery.
Useful to know
It works especially well for floral and shaded patterns and can be balanced with metallic work.
S
Outfits & Silhouettes
Salwar Kameez
A salwar kameez combines a tunic or kameez with loose trousers called a salwar, usually accompanied by a dupatta.
Useful to know
Traditional salwar trousers are roomy through the leg and gather towards the ankle, unlike the closer-fitting churidar.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Saree
Also: Sari
A saree is an unstitched length of fabric draped around the body and usually worn with a blouse and underskirt.
Useful to know
Draping styles vary by region, community, occasion and individual preference.
Fabrics & Textiles
Satin
Satin refers to a smooth, lustrous surface produced by a particular weave structure.
Useful to know
Satin is not itself a fibre; satin fabrics can be made from silk and other fibres.
Bespoke & Fitting
Seam Allowance or Margin
Also: Seam allowance · Margin
Seam allowance is the extra fabric extending beyond a stitching line inside a garment. In Indian tailoring, “margin” often refers to spare fabric available for alterations.
Useful to know
Extra margin can make some later adjustments possible, but how much a garment can be enlarged depends on its construction.
Bespoke & Fitting
Semi-Stitched
Also: Semi stitched
A semi-stitched outfit has already been partly constructed but is intentionally left unfinished in selected areas so it can be adjusted to the wearer.
Useful to know
It offers more flexibility than a fixed ready-made size but less control than making a garment from the beginning around one person.
Embroidery & Handwork
Sequins
Sequins are small reflective discs sewn onto fabric to add shine.
Useful to know
Size, finish and density matter: tiny matt sequins behave very differently from large highly reflective ones.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Sharara
A sharara features wide, flowing trousers that flare generously through the legs.
Useful to know
It is different from a traditional gharara, even though online retailers sometimes mix the two names.
Outfits & Silhouettes
Sherwani
A sherwani is a long, structured coat-like garment traditionally worn by men for weddings and formal occasions.
Useful to know
Wedding sherwanis may use brocade, embroidery, zardozi, beadwork and decorative buttons.
Embroidery & Handwork
Stone Work
Stone work is a broad fashion term for decorative stones or crystals attached to clothing.
Useful to know
More sparkle does not automatically mean better workmanship; placement, balance and secure attachment matter more.
T
Embroidery & Handwork
Thread Work
Thread work is a broad description for embroidery made primarily with coloured thread rather than metallic materials, stones or beads.
Useful to know
Fine hand-executed thread embroidery can be highly skilled and time-consuming even when it is not heavy.
Fabrics & Textiles
Tissue
In Indian fashion, tissue usually describes a lightweight, lustrous textile with a metallic or shimmering appearance.
Useful to know
Because the cloth already reflects light, it may not need dense embellishment to feel festive.
Parts & Construction
Trail or Train
Also: Trail · Train
A trail or train is an extended section of a garment that continues behind the wearer.
Useful to know
A dramatic train can photograph beautifully, but venue surfaces and practical movement matter.
Fabrics & Textiles
Tulle
Tulle is a lightweight net-like fabric often used for layers, veils and volume.
Useful to know
It appears frequently in gowns and contemporary lehengas where a softer, airy silhouette is wanted.
U
Bespoke & Fitting
Unstitched
Unstitched clothing is supplied as fabric rather than as a fully constructed garment.
Useful to know
The finished result depends heavily on the person who eventually cuts, fits and makes it.
V
Fabrics & Textiles
Velvet
Velvet is a pile fabric with a soft surface and rich depth of colour.
Useful to know
It has physical weight. A large velvet dupatta with lining, embroidery and a substantial border can become much heavier than it first appears.
Z
Embroidery & Handwork
Zardozi
Also: Zardosi
Zardozi is an elaborate embroidery tradition using metallic threads and other decorative materials worked onto the surface of fabric.
Useful to know
Contemporary zardozi may combine metallic coils, beads, stones and thread. Dense placement can add significant depth and weight.
Embroidery & Handwork
Zari
Zari is metallic thread or yarn traditionally associated with gold and silver and used widely in Indian weaving and embroidery.
Useful to know
Zari is a material; techniques such as zardozi describe ways metallic materials may be worked onto fabric.
Common questions
A few distinctions brides ask about most.
What is the difference between a lehenga and a lehenga choli?
Technically, the lehenga is the skirt and the choli is the blouse. The complete outfit will usually also include a dupatta, although “lehenga” is often used conversationally for the whole outfit.
What is the difference between a sharara and a gharara?
A sharara generally has wide, flowing trouser legs. A traditional gharara is more fitted through the upper leg before opening into a pronounced flare around the knee.
Are zari and zardozi the same thing?
No. Zari is a metallic thread or yarn used in weaving and decoration. Zardozi is an embroidery tradition that can use metallic threads, coils, beads and other materials.
What does ghera mean in a lehenga?
Ghera describes the fullness or circumference around the lower part of a lehenga. More ghera can create greater flare, but fabric, panel construction and cancan also affect the finished silhouette.
Does more cancan make a lehenga better?
Not necessarily. Cancan adds structure and volume, but the right amount depends on the silhouette, comfort and how you need to move throughout the day.
Is heavier embroidery always better quality?
No. Weight can come from fabric, beads, stones, borders and construction. Workmanship, secure application, materials and design balance matter far more than heaviness alone.
A living vocabulary
Knowing the words helps. You do not need to become an expert.
Use reference images, explain what you like, and talk about movement, coverage, weight and comfort. The right language can make a design conversation easier, but a good maker should also be able to help you find the words.